Tie Rod Sleeves Install
First here are the tools you should need:
7/8" open end
Super Diesel Sleeves (2)
7/8" deep socket (if you don't use lug wrench)
Impact or ratchet
2 beers (1 per side)
Set parking brake. Jack up front of truck and support the frame with jack stand. If you do not have an impact, loosen lugs 1/2 a turn before jacking it up.
Remove plastic beauty cap and wheel.
Loosen 21mm nut from tierod end.
Loosen 7/8" locknut on tierod shaft.
Tap tierod end on top with hammer to loosen. If you don't leave the loosened nut on, make sure you hold the tierod end with your other hand.
DO NOT LET THE TIEROD ROTATE.
READ THIS WHOLE STEP BEFORE PROCEEDING:
Starting at Top Dead Center (TDC), unscrew tierod end one revolution at a time. Count every FULL revolution, and pull towards you with a little pressure. You need to record how many revolutions the tierod end is on it's shaft to get your alignment right.
Most trucks are about 20 revolutions. Only count full revolutions.
Next remove the lock nut from the shaft.
Screw on the Super Diesel sleeve as far as it goes by hand.
Screw on the locknut by hand up to the sleeve.
Now the most important part.
Get the tierod end started on the shaft and at TDC. If you pull on it, it should not come off. If you unscrew it 1 rev, it should fall off.
Now with it at TDC, count backwards to zero:
With it sitting just started, say Twenty (if it was twenty), then as you screw it on a full revolution, say 19, 18, etc, till you get to zero.
Stick the tierod end into it's mount and screw the nut on by hand.
Tighten the 21mm nut on top of the tierod end.
Tighten the locknut on the shaft against the tierod end.
Tighten the sleeve against the locknut and tierod end.
How tight? As tight as you can get it by hand. Don't have the torque specs, but I've done this on a few trucks.
Put a little anti-seize on the lugs before installing the lugnuts. GM's are notorious for stripping out lugs, and that hub assy is expensive.
Torque lugs down (150lb), then re-tighten after 50 miles.
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